Orecchiette con Broccoli di Rape and Sausages, recipe from Lidia Bastianich

The other day I happened to see this recipe demonstrated on the PBS series Julia Child: Lessons with Master Chefs. The chef put this together with little effort and it just looked good and tasty. Coincidentally, I had never tried/cooked broccoli rabe or orecchiette so this recipe seemed like a good one to try as it has a simple, non-tomato based sauce plus it features Italian sausage as the main protein.

I guessed correctly that Whole Paycheck would have both the veggie (about $10 per pound) and pasta but decided that every store would have the pasta. Well it turns out that I finally found a box of orecchiette reasonably priced at WalMart ($1.96 for 10 oz.) after three other nonproductive stops.

I cut the recipe in half for this experiment and used half sweet/half spicy sausage. I also added a squeeze of fresh lemon juice before it was served. It turned out to be a definite keeper - very tasty!

Check out this delightfully written recipe: http://www.pbs.org/juliachild/free/pasta.html

Beet and Swiss Chard Risotto with Horseradish

Tonight's adventure was Beet Risotto and Swiss Chard with Horseradish. Beets have never been on my list of vegetables to cook but I thought I would try this out after buying some beets at Whole Paycheck. The colors were very much in the Christmas season - bright red with bits of green Swiss chard throughout the dish (the green doesn't show up well in the picture - the chard appears to be dark green).

The risotto supported some thick cut (Husker) pork chops which I brined for a couple of hours; they were then breaded with crushed oyster crackers, parmesan cheese and Italian seasoning, browned in a pan and finished in the oven.

I've only eaten beets once before (in class) and this was the first time for my food critic. I sauteed the beets before adding them to the risotto - they didn't really have a lot of flavor. I think when I repeat this recipe I may roast the beets first rather than saute them.

It's Alive

I've been getting a sourdough starter underway for the last two weeks. Nancy Silverton of La Brea Bakery fame has a chapter in one of her cookbooks on this process which uses grapes, flour and water to create a starter. After ten days, the starter gets fed three times per day with a total of 38.5 ounces of flour plus seven cups of water. The last feeding results in a nearly full container that weighs about seven pounds. Each day starts with discarding all but two cups of the starter before the feeding process starts anew. After four days of these feedings the starter is supposed to be ready for use.

This morning (day 14) instead of throwing out the usual amount of starter before the first feeding, I poured off some and made pancake batter. The recipe called for starter, eggs, oil, maple syrup and some salt, baking powder and baking soda. Ever hopeful, I mixed the ingredients together and ladled some into a pan. Apparently the starter is alive and well as witnessed by the mass of bubbles in the batter as the pancake cooked.

I'm getting close to making some bread dough - maybe tomorrow I'll begin the two day process of baking some bread. However, I've already gone through a number of 5-lb. bags of bread flour creating this starter so I think I may head out to Sam's Club and purchase a 40-lb. bag of bread flour . . .

Salty Oatmeal Cookies

One of my favorite foods is a salty oatmeal cookie which my mom used to bake. However, she hasn't made them in years and I've never bothered to make them even though we had a recipe for them.

I finally decided to make them and I even searched the internet for similar recipes. Mom had changed her recipe by substituting shortening for butter so when I finally made these wonderful cookies, I used unsalted butter. I also refrigerated the dough to firm it up before I baked the cookies. The first batch was sort of bland; I guessed that using kosher salt instead of table salt was the reason (even though additional salt is sprinkled on top of the cookie before baking).

My second attempt I thought was better. I used table salt in the cookies and also added a small amount (1/2 tsp) of cinnamon. I might try using a small scoop next time to get a more uniform size cookie . . .

I really like these cookies!!

Happy in the Kitchen

We are on break now, between quarters. I have accumulated a few new cookbooks along the way since starting school. Curiously enough, I haven't added as many as I would have thought but I really like the collections that are more like a text book, i.e., ones that contain both commentary and photos.

When I started cooking, one of the first cookbooks I used was The Joy of Cooking. My copy is a paperback and it is falling apart. This edition (older than a lot of my classmates) explains some things but, other than a few illustrations, it has no photos. It was my cooking reference for years.

I ended up with two books from our Protein Fabrication class, Lobel's Meat Bible and James Peterson's Fish & Shellfish as part of our reading assignments. Lobel's provides a fair amount of information on a variety of meats but could benefit from some illustrations such as diagrams on primals. The Peterson book is well written and provides a lot of information on cooking techniques which I believe could be another whole level of instruction at school.

All this is leading to some recent acquisitions, one by chance (Momofuku) and the other (Happy in the Kitchen) recommended by my knowledgeable friend, Nichole.

Momofuku is David Chang's New York restaurant group and the book by the same name chronicles the evolution of his noodle bar as well as provides instruction on how to create some of the dishes served at the restaurant. It contains a variety of interesting photos along with the commentary. Curiously enough, we are planning to visit some friends who live near the CIA in upstate New York and they recommended (out of the blue) visiting Momofuku.

Nichole recommended Michel Richard's Happy in the Kitchen last month and I finally got around to getting a copy of it. It typifies exactly what I like in a "cook book" – some history in its commentary, great photos wrapped around some new techniques. The foreword by Thomas Keller echoes what I have learned in school, "Pastry chefs and savory chefs rely on a completely different set of skills and use their intellects in different ways. Pastry chefs are like mathematicians. Savory chefs, we're like free thinkers. . ." which helps explain why I'm neither so to speak.

Last class for Soups and Sauces

We concluded our final lab for our Thursday class with a straight forward assignment - cook something with whatever was in the refrigerator - as long it had an integral sauce. Our proteins were steaks and chicken; we had the usual suspects in terms of vegetables and stocks. I started with some thinly sliced potatoes which became Pommes Anna in a small Teflon pan. After the first side browned up, I successfully flipped it over and put it into the oven to finish. Next I chose a split chicken breast which I lightly floured and sauted in some oil. It then went into the oven to finish. I started my sauce by deglazing the pan with some shallots and some white wine (actually too much white wine). Then I added chicken stock and started a reduction. Well, too much wine translates into a very sweet sauce (you would think by now I would have figured this out). I started getting concerned that my efforts at a reduction would not turn out but it did as the sweet liquid slowly but surely turned into a sauce. I also sauted some broccoli while this sauce was forming - I used some extra chicken stock on the broccoli to help it along as well. My sauce actually shaped up quite nicely going from a light tan liquid to a nice brown pan sauce. My lack of multitasking skills caught up with me as the sauce became too thick while I messing around with the broccoli so I had to add some more stock to the pan.

Long story short - I got my ingredients plated and in from of chef in a timely manner. He thought the plate looked good. I used the potatoes with a wedge removed, filled that spot with some broccoli and cut about half of the chicken into some slices. The uncut portion went on top of the potatoes and the slices were placed on that piece of chicken. My sauce then went on the slices. Nothing too fancy but (for me) decently executed.

Overall, this class exposed us to a lot of concepts in a short amount of time - I wish in some respects that the amount of time could have been at least doubled. Chef pointed out that true sauce artists spend their whole careers perfecting their craft - we had ten weeks . . .

The Aftermath of Practicals

In my January 17 post I mentioned something about washing dishes - part of the glamor of attending culinary school. Today we had our practicals for Veg, Starch & Protein Cookery. I'm not sure why one plate and a dessert would generate so many dishes - but it did. This picture only gives a glimpse of the accumulated bowls, pans and other equipment required for today's test. Anna worked at the dish washing station for an extended period before this picture was taken (so did I and I have dish pan hands to prove it) and a number of other people were concurrently washing dishes at other sinks - cleanup was longer today than any other class all quarter . . . we even had so many dishes piled up that we expanded into a work area next to the sinks (no, Jonah did not create that mess by himself!)

My own plate had some issues and chef gently pointed out its failures as well as suggested a number of alternatives to my choosen ingredients and the way I presented them. He liked my dessert (a Blueberry Mango Crisp with cinnamon dusted vanilla ice cream) so my practical ended up on a positive note (chef finished my dessert - a true compliment).

This was our last lab for this class and a special thanks to Jennifer (our Lab Assistant) who scrounged up some blueberries for me after I discovered that I had left mine at home.

Infused (and confused?)

Our current assignment for Soups and Sauces was to create an infused oil. I just happened to have some grapeseed oil in the pantry - however its age was unknown (most likely several years old) although it had never been opened.

I was surprised at the color of the oil, I thought it would be clear like canola. I also thought its taste would be very bland, it wasn't, and in spite of its color it was not as fruity as olive oil. After some thought about garlic and roasted garlic infusions, I finally decided on simply using a dry Italian herb mix that consisted of oregano, basil, marjoram, thyme and cracked rosemary. I heated one cup of the grapeseed oil to 150 degrees F and dumped about one and a half tablespoons of the herb mix into the warm oil. After a few days, I strained the oil and did some taste tests of my infused oil with some plain bread. I also tried adding some freshly grated parmesan cheese, black pepper and some more of the herb mix on a plate.

My initial tasting left me with two impressions, either the amount of time was too short for the infusion and/or the amount of dried herbs needs to be significantly increased. On to plan B.

Goodbye old friend

At about 8:25 AM, my Waring Model 11CM10 lost one of its blades while grinding some coffee beans. This little machine was probably older than most of my classmates as it has been around for a long time. It will be missed at least until I get a replacement later today.

My friend Mary points out that "You might be a foodie if . . .

you fill your bath tub up with carp and whitefish to make your own gefilte fish for Passover."

You might be a foodie if

I have asked a number of people to describe a "foodie" and I think I will start adding their comments at the end of each post.

For example, Nichole suggests, "You might be a foodie if . . .

you have cooked anything with a foil wrapped brick.

the employees at Sur La Table, Penzeys Spices and Whole Foods ask YOU how to use their products.

you have 3 kinds of yeast in your refrigerator and 11 varieties of vinegar in your cupboard.

you actually prefer getting a blender for anniversary - provided its a Vita-Mix Pro 500.

you have taken your "Food Lover's Companion" to the beach.

you have tried to smuggle a beginning-to-smell raw milk cheese through U.S. customs.

if you plot lunch at breakfast, dinner at lunch and dream about breakfast!"

The practical plan

I think fruit may showing up as a salad item and incorporated in some sort of "unconventional" fruit crisp for dessert. The dessert will need to bake and cool a bit so it will probably be the first item in the work queue. However, I'm still searching for an appropriate dressing for a composed fruit salad. This part of the plan is still a bit uncertain.

Looks like my experiments with roasting roma tomatoes are going to lead toward a barley risotto with roasted tomatoes. I ran across a little video on Eatdrinkordie.com starring Top Chef's Tom Colicchio which led to the idea of roasted tomato barley risotto. I like the flavor profile, the color added by the roasted tomatoes as well as the subtle overtones from the garlic is which roasted along with the tomatoes.

I'll probably use an apple cider marinade on the pork while the tomatoes roast and the dessert bakes although that time span may not allow much flavor infusion from the marinade. I think I'll probably pan sear the whole piece of pork and let it finish in the oven while the rest of the menu is completed. When it comes out and is resting, I have some left over Australian syrah and/or a Washington state cabernet blend to reduce as a pan sauce

My braising efforts with Belgian endive have produced somewhat uneven results as it is a bit delicate when braised. As things currently stand, I think braised fennel will most likely make the plate along side of the barley risotto.

Creative Avoidance

Chef gave us an outline for our Practical in two weeks with an assignment for developing our plate based on the outline. So another series of trips to the grocery stores has yielded some Belgian endive and fennel to braise, another pommelo to test plus some Roma tomatoes to roast. I'm currently inclined to choose sea bass as my protein but I would like to find some fillets for experiments before I get too far along in this process.

Meanwhile, I continue to find creative ways which are helping me to avoid dealing with this next challenge in a couple weeks. For example, a new dish for me (Lasagne Bolognese with Spinach) should be coming out of the oven in about 20 minutes. We had a Foundation class share its bolognese sauce a couple of weeks ago during lab. That experience brought back some memories of my own Foundation class and has been in the back of my mind to find another way to use that sauce. So while I researching ideas for our Practical I ran across this recipe. The dish has a small amount of tomato paste in it but no other forms of tomatoes. Thus it is not as "saucy" as most lasagnas and its texture is also a little different. (My food critic thought it had good flavor but guessed that it would be a little dry when reheated.)

I also uploaded Turbo Tax this afternoon and did a quick run through of my 2009 taxes. What does that have to do with culinary school?? The American Opportunity Credit for 2009 (and 2010) is a tax credit for undergraduate college expenses. What a great deal for the culinary students at Metro!

40 cloves and counting

Last Thursday we had an extensive menu in class which included "Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic." I do not remember how it turned out in class Thursday so I thought I would give it a try the next day. I served it with some non-instant couscous flavored with some Meyer lemons and zest. I didn't get the couscous steamed very well so that part of our meal was so so at best. The chicken was just OK (my food critic described the taste as "a little dark") - I might try this again when the weather is a little more conducive for grilling the chicken before it gets braised. Also I think I may have been a little heavy on the amount of oil used to brown the chicken and the garlic cloves. So I see another 40 cloves in my future.

Yes, it was me

Yes that wonderful aroma of steaks on the 'barbie at 7:00 PM was created by me grilling USDA Prime rib eyes on my charcoal-fired Weber last night in the dark. Yes I know that the outside temperature was 20 degrees but the wind was non-existent so it only felt like 20 degrees. Yes I served those steaks with some Bearnaise sauce (the kind of Bearnaise Chef would say is for a "leetle girl") and Chef's creamed spinach. The steaks and spinach were pretty tasty. You know, sometimes in winter you just have to say, "What the heck." One of these days I'm going to make a real Bearnaise . . .

Damn it, Chef

First, it was "illegal" Chef bread. Now, the list has grown to include oatmeal cookies. I'm not much of a fan for cookies, especially any cookie with fruit in it. The recipe was modified to eliminate the raisins and dates - I substituted craisins, toasted pecans and semi-sweet chocolate chips. Damn.

Dr. Jeckyll/Mr. Hyde

Our menu today certainly wasn't one of my favorites for the quarter. Yet if I had to "sign up" for more sessions on this menu, I would be first in line. Today's menu is one of the reasons why I'm in school - to expand my culinary horizon beyond the the everyday type of things we tend to cook. Veggie burgers - I don't think so - but Brian's burger was really good and showed how someone with some skills and imagination can take some rather mundane ingredients and make them literally sing.

We had chicken and noodles over mashed potatoes with a side dish of quinoa pilaf for dinner - maybe I'm making some progress - who knows?

Meat, please . . .

Looks like we are having veggie burgers in class on Moday so to prepare myself for meatless Monday I tried a new recipe, Poblano Albondigas with Ancho Chile Soup (poblano meatballs). I though the soup was just OK and the meatballs were a little soft when cooked. I'm not sure how to make them firmer (perhaps more panko to firm them up or maybe cooking the meatballs a bit before putting them in the soup would have helped - the meatballs also had grated zucchini in them).

Score!

Every now and then it's rewarding to try something new and have it turn out well. We just consumed the ribs that I braised yesterday and this is the first time that I have prepared this type of meat where it has not been dry and overcooked. These country style ribs were moist and tender, their flavor reflected the braising liquid flavorings (onion, fennel, apple cider vinegar, apple cider, chicken stock, cinnamon sticks, red pepper flakes) and the sauce from the reduced braising liquid was very nice.

Win some lose some
Well the cake came out of the oven in good order but it didn't come out of the pan in a like manner - maybe next time . . .

The veloute turned out better, as did the mac & cheese. I'm still trying to find the "best" combination of cheeses.

The pork is braising away in the oven, uncovered at 350 degrees. We'll see how this goes.

The Braise

I was planning on using the same braising liquid from the short ribs to cook my country style pork ribs. However, the staining power (on the sink, cutting board, etc.) of the adobo sauce changed my mind. So I headed to the basement archives last night in search of some braising articles and recipes. An old Fine Cooking (March, 2002) had an article on braising in a section called "Cooking Without Recipes" written by Tom Colicchio, the head judge on Bravo's Top Chef (the picture of him is a scream - younger, skinnier and some hair . . .). These articles typically describe the technique and list a variety of ingredients - no real recipes. Looks like I may use onion and fennel for the aromatics; some cinnamon sticks, cider vinegar, garlic and red pepper flakes for flavor; and chicken stock with apple cider for the braising liquids.

No class today so I tried roasting onions at 400 degrees in a dutch oven instead of carmelizing them in a saute pan. This method supposedly is less labor intensive; however, the onions did not seem as sweet as the ones we did in class for French Onion soup. The soup turned out OK but I think next time I'll just carmelize them on the stove.

The recipe called for 1/4 cup of sherry

I have had a gift certificate (from my friend Ed) to the Corkscrew since last August. I've been in the store a number of times but haven't really found any wines that just jumped out at me (other than a label from Roshambo Winery which sold out shortly after I saw it but that is another story and I digress - see the attached photo). Anyway, it finally dawns on me that I should use this gift to add some additional spirits to my collection for cooking purposes. So today I picked up a bottle of ruby port, a dry sherry, some madeira and a bottle of marsala (chef said he thought this stuff would have a lengthy shelf life even when opened). So today was the day to fill this perceived void in my pantry.

Only "The Best" for birthdays

We had three birthdays last week in my Wednesday Protein Fabrication class so I think I will make a cake for our next class. The name of the recipe is "The Best Chocolate Bundt Cake" although I've made it a couple of times and maybe it is and maybe it isn't. The recipe says all that is needed on the cake is a dusting of confectioners' sugar but a nice chocolate ganache is really a tasty addition . . .

Veloute

Tomorrow is also veloute day as our family recipe for Baked Macaroni and Cheese uses this mother sauce along with mozzarella, white cheddar, Emmenthaler and Parmesan cheeses. I think this is a pretty good recipe.

We just finished off some Bananas Foster as I have vowed that my bottle of Creme de Banana is not going to evaporate faster than the time it takes for me to use it up.

The ribs were tasty and the sauce not too spicy but the arroz verde did not turn out as I would have liked. It had good flavor and I substituted some Hatch green chilies in lieu of some roasted, pureed poblanos. That change resulted in a much lighter color of green for the rice which in turn did not provide the visual contrast I was seeking between the ribs, rice and hominy.

Now I'm off to clean the kitchen - another technique which is being reinforced in spades at culinary school . . . you know one of the reasons I went to college was to avoid washing dishes . . .

After the ribs came out of the oven last night, I placed them in my blast chiller (AKA as my garage). I removed the solidified fat from the pan this morning and then reheated the pan in a low oven for about thirty minutes. I added some stock and a little lime juice to thin the pan juices. This braising liquid has a pretty good bite (I assume from the chipotles) but I think will make a nice sauce. I adjusted the seasoning of the liquid before returning the pan to the garage. Now I need to figure out what will accompany the ribs. I'm leaning toward yellow hominy and perhaps some arroz verde.

Yesterday I completed my first demi-glace in Soup & Sauce Cookery. I'm apparently roux-impaired as this was the second class in a row where I needed to add additional roux to get my sauce to thicken properly to - you guessed it - a "sauce consistency." Last week it was my attempt at bechamel and this week it was my espagnole sauce.

However, I eventually got to where I needed and my demi-glace ended up looking like a proper sauce - a milestone.


"Alice in Wonderland"
I'm guessing that class will be as close to a commercial kitchen that I'll get so I'm a little bit like Alice in Wonderland. For example, Chef told us to put our demi-glace in a small hotel pan, cool it down in the blast chiller and then transfer it to a plastic container for future use. So I placed my demi-glace in the blast chiller (which I hadn't used before) and then took a break with the rest of the class to eat our pasta and review what we had learned from today's lab. This took about half an hour. When I went back to retrieve my sauce and I was amazed to find a nicely solidified lump of sauce with little frost crystals all over the hotel pan. I thought to myself, "God, this thing really works ." and I showed three other classmates the pan. Funny thing, they all said the exact same thing, "God, that thing really works!" - and even Angel said the same thing (although she apologized for saying God . . .)


Fridays are always my day to catch up on my To Do List and to start cooking something. I ended up visiting Sur La Table to see their new sous vide machine - it's so new to the store that the store staff had no idea what it was. I walked out with a new 10-inch non-stick frying pan - a long over due replacement. I also picked up a stainless steel colander at Hockenbergs and ordered three more nested colanders from the Internet. (It's a sickness - I know). I then stopped by school to show my wife the old and new digs - her first visit to the ICA.


The trip home required several stops to find some reasonably priced ancho peppers - I needed about 4 peppers for a new recipe. Turns out that Baker's had a one pound package for about $9 with a Use By date of June, 2009. Hy Vee had one ounce packages for $3 - I guessed each one had about 3 peppers in it. I ended up at Wal Mart where a five minute search yielded the same one pound package like Baker's only it cost $5 - however, no Use By date . . .

I'm cooking Short Ribs Braised in Ancho Chile Sauce, a fairly straight forward recipe that uses ancho chiles and canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce along with onion, garlic, maple syrup, lime juice, the soaking liquid from the ancho chiles and some coffee for the braising liquid. I added some Hatch green chiles to increase the heat of the sauce. The ribs went into the oven at 7:00 PM. A note on the recipe says the ribs improve in flavor if braised two days ahead of serving so we'll eat these on Sunday or Monday. I am also hoping that the braising liquid will be good to reuse with some baby back pork ribs next week.

One thing about those chipotle chiles in adobo sauce - I chopped them up on a white plastic cutting board and it now looks like I have a permanently orange stained cutting board . . .

Practicals today. My three plates were a Fennel, Red Pepper and Granny Smith Apple Salad with Shaved Parmesan, Anise Scented Squash Soup and a Fennel Gratin - three simple and straight forward dishes. The salad turned out OK, Chef suggested leaving the skin on the apple so the julienne cuts would have some green on the ends and he also thought the pepper cuts should have been the same size as the fennel and apples. Chef said the fennel was not evident in the soup (I used a 1:2 ratio of fennel to butternut squash) so I'll use a little more fennel and add some fennel seeds next time I make it.

Some of my fellow students created some fairly involved plates with somewhat mixed results in terms of flavors, execution and presentation. Overall, it was hard to tell what Chef thought about our practicals since we had a lot of leeway in our menu choices plus the range of kitchen experience among my fellow classmates seems pretty wide at times. Chef made no comment about seasoning on my three plates - a first . . .

We had a new menu item for the second class in a row that I made but had no real reference as to the taste profile. Last week was Ratatouille; this week we had an Artichoke Barigoule. By the way, that burning smell in the kitchen was from a quarter sized spot on my seared duck breast and my right arm (after I brushed an oven during an demo).

One of my objectives of coming to culinary school was to expand my taste horizons and MCC has been certainly doing that. Unfortunately, I am running out of class time as this quarter is quickly disappearing.

I have been experimenting with fennel in a variety of recipes with somewhat mixed results in terms of the final product - both taste and presentation. My wife has been pleasantly surprised by the dishes as she was expecting a more pronounced licorice flavor. I have been surprised by the sweetness of the cooked bulbs.

Week 5, Winter Quarter, January 5

Practicals next week are all about Fennel. Found that Baker's has the best price on the veggie, $2.99 each (not per pound) - I took home three for practice.